The 2023 vintage
turbulent weather, very good wines

These weather conditions generally prevailed throughout the whole of Niederösterreich, although the intensity of rainfall before the main harvest varied from one wine-growing region to the next. Overall, wineries in Niederösterreich can expect dense, juicy white wines with pronounced aromas of fruit and well-rounded acidity, which also brings out the character of the grape variety well in the glass. This vintage will probably see Grüner Veltliner – the flagship variety of Niederösterreich – displaying stronger grapy aromas and notes of pome fruit, rather than a peppery, tobbacoey spiciness. Rieslings and grape varieties of the white Pinot family show sufficient acidity, fuelling expectations of both well-balanced and fruit-led wines. The aromatic varieties, such as Gelber Muskateller and Sauvignon Blanc, as well as special varieties of the Thermenregion will also be able to display their varietal characteristics to the full.

In Niederösterreich’s red-wine bastions of Carnuntum, Steinfeld (Thermenregion) and the Weinviertel’s red-wine-growing “islands”, winemakers are looking forward to another outstanding vintage of ripe, powerful wines that reflect the entire spectrum of Austria’s red wines.

An early cold spell arrived at the beginning of December, much to the delight of Eiswein producers who were able to harvest a significant volume of very clean, frozen grapes.

Although rain fell in Burgenland at the above-mentioned times of year, there was less of it. Fine white wines with a rich, fruity mellowness and pronounced varietal typicity can be expected in the wine-growing communities in the Leithaberg region, as well as around Lake Neusiedl and in southern Burgenland. Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Welschriesling appear to have delivered very good results this year. On the whole, a lack of acidity is as uncommon in these wines as it is in the aromatic varieties. Unlike Peronospora, Botrytis was not an issue this year, which was probably due in part to cool night-time temperatures during the main harvest period.

The red wine grapes produced high-quality, intensely coloured musts. These will certainly lead to ripe, juicy and powerful wines with mature, velvety tannins. We can therefore expect concentrated yet harmonious, well-structured wines with strong tension from all of Burgenland’s red-wine strongholds – and these wines will clearly hold their own against the outstanding 2019 and 2021 vintages. The Austrian flagship varieties Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt managed to impress in the same way as the French varieties. The red wines from these three excellent vintages are bound to be frequently compared to one another in the future.

Botrytis occurred relatively late in the season and enabled the production of premium-quality dessert wines with a great acidic backbone. As in Niederösterreich, early frosts finally enabled a significant volume of high-quality Eiswein to be harvested.

The year has all the makings of a fine vintage in Steiermark’s three wine-growing regions. Coulure and Peronospora played a significant role here, resulting in probably the lowest yields harvested since 2016. Generally speaking, the white wines are dense and rich in extract with a moderate alcohol content. Furthermore, the high volume of rain in Steiermark, which continued into the summer, has meant that any issues with acidity were avoided, leading to expectations of very racy, precise wines. Steiermark’s flagship variety Sauvignon Blanc is a prime example of where piquancy and intense fruit aromas come into play, as well as clearly defined structure and harmony. A similar case can be found in the region’s second favourite variety, the Gelber Muskateller, which will demonstrate its unmistakable aromas just as well as the somewhat calmer and more subtle Traminer. However, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris will probably also reach great heights, especially in the wine-growing hubs of the Vulkanland Steiermark region. These varieties obviously feel particularly at home in this region’s somewhat warmer microclimate – and this applies to all three levels of origin: Gebietswein (regional wine), Ortswein (villages wine) and Riedenwein (single-vineyard wine). These climatic factors also enabled grapes to reach a high degree of ripeness in Steiermark’s south-east corner. By contrast, the Schilcher-producing Weststeiermark region is demonstrating its prowess with lithe elegance and cool freshness. Last year’s Blauer Wildbacher grapes delivered delicate, racy Schilcher wines that displayed characteristic currant and gooseberry aromas, along with a harmonious balance between ripeness and crisp fruity acidity in the young wines. It also paid off to delay the harvest a little in the west of Steiermark, to reap the benefits of the glorious autumn weather.

As was the case in Niederösterreich and Burgenland, Wien’s vineyards on the Nußberg, Bisamberg and Maurerberg were also able to harvest very ripe white wines that represent the whole spectrum. A later harvest was beneficial in many places here, too. The effects of the early onset of Peronospora and hailstorms at the end of August caused concern for some winegrowers, as well as reduced yields. In general, however, we can expect zesty Rieslings and juicy Veltliners displaying varietal typicity, as well as well-balanced, multi-faceted Wiener Gemischter Satz.

The wine-growing areas in Oberösterreich (Upper Austria) can certainly announce the best vintage of all time. The moisture reserves that had built up over spring proved very important during the hot and dry summer months, and the repeated rainfall in early August provided an additional boost. There was a little hail here and there, but after that, the weather stayed perfect throughout the harvest period. This region was spared the heavy rain that fell in other areas shortly before harvesting time. As a result, the wines are exceptionally ripe, aromatic and well-rounded, yielding unprecedentedly high gradations, right up to Auslese.

In Kärnten’s wine-growing “islands”, conditions were a little more challenging than those in the previous year – a year that was held in high esteem. The entire summer was characterised by prolonged showers of rain, which, in the wine-growing villages of Unterkärnten (Lower Carinthia), were also accompanied by hailstorms. This caused a relatively late start to the harvest, which also proved to be very laborious in vineyards that had been affected by hail damage and Peronospora. Generally speaking, we can expect lighter, robust and racy wines that display good varietal typicity.

The late budding was also seen as a blessing in Tyrol’s vineyards, as it meant that damage due to the dreaded late frosts could be avoided. Due to the summer rain, the diligent application of plant protection products was essential. The comparatively late harvest proved to be very labour-intensive and resulted in a relatively small yield containing a high degree of sugar, from which we can expect rich, harmonious wines.

Circumstances were similar in Vorarlberg. The late budding was followed by heavy rainfall in April and May, which actually turned out to be a blessing in terms of the water supply. This meant that vines coped reasonably well during the unusually long periods of dryness in the summer, although these conditions did have a negative impact on yield. Lower volumes meant that a very high sugar level and corresponding alcohol content could be achieved. Expectations point in the direction of ripe, rich wines