Viticulture in Austria – a journey in fast motion
Vines were already existing more than 60 million years ago. In the period of warmth that followed the Ice Age (between 5,000 and 10, 000 years ago), vines were introduced to the area along the Danube river and towards the northwest. Man discovered and cultivated those wild vines, which were of a variety that was the parent to all grape varieties in Europe today. Excavations show that in what constitutes present-day Austria, the Celts and Illyrians were cultivating vines.
In Zagersdorf, in the region of Burgenland, clay urns were found in cairns containing grape seeds dating back to 700 B.C. Viticulture in the region blossomed during the Roman occupation, such as in the Südsteiermark near Leibnitz (Flavia Solva), at Eisenberg in Südburgenland, around the Neusiedlersee (Lake Neusiedl) and along the Danube, near Carnuntum, Vindobona (Vienna), Aquae (Baden), Augustianis (Traismauer) and Favianis (Mautern). Two significant dates associated with the Roman period are recorded. In 228 A.D., Emperor Probus annulled the prohibition that had been issued in 91 A.D. by Emperor Domitian and which had stipulated that no vines be cultivated north of the Alps. Probus deemed the annulment necessary in order to ensure supplies for his troops and to promote his settlement policy for Roman legionnaires in the region. In 470 A.D., Roman author Eugippius mentioned in his biography of Saint Severin (who died in 482 A.D.) the existence of vineyards near Mautern.
During the period of great migration, vineyards were heavily damaged. It was only under Emperor Charlemagne (742-814 A.D.) that reconstruction commenced in the form of orderly, showpiece vineyards, the purification of grape varieties and the introduction of grape presses, which were fairly sophisticated for the time. Donations of land to monasteries were implemented with the stipulation that vines would be planted and viticulture nurtured. After a set-back caused by the Magyar invasion (890-955 A.D.), monasteries and cloisters – Niederaltaich, Tegernsee, Freising, Passau, Kremsmünster and Salzburg, and the Cistercians from Burgundy as well – became pioneers of viticulture. And in turn, local peasants (in the Wachau, around Klosterneuburg, in the Thermenregion, Burgenland and Steiermark) acquired the knowledge of wine growing and making. By the Middle Ages, not only clerics, but also aristocrats and the middle classes, established businesses in viticulture.
In the 13th century, the first vineyard site names were recorded in official documents – these sites included Kremser Sandgrube, in 1208, and Steiner Pfaffenberg, in 1230. At around 1250, viticulture spread west, even as far as Salzburg. And in the 14th century, Vienna established itself as a centre for viticulture and wine trading in the Danube area. During that same period, in 1359, the first wine tax (“Ungeld”) was introduced by Duke Rudolf IV “the Stifter”, (or, “the donator”).
The 15th century proved somewhat extreme in the annals of wine-growing. The 1456 vintage, for example, was declared by Emperor Friedrich III to be “unpleasant”, with the wine subsequently used in mortar for building the tower of St. Stephan's Cathedral in Vienna. However, in 1499, the surplus of must (unfermented grape juice) resulted in the building of “Moststuben” – “must halls” – which ultimately had a rather dreary side effect: per capita consumption soared to 180 litres, and many people literally drank themselves to death! (Today, per capita consumption is just under 30 litres.)
At the beginning of the 16th century, vineyard planting reached its widest breadth. Wines from western Hungary (today´s Burgenland) were exported successfully to Bohemia, Moravia, Silesia and Prussia; “Ruster” and “Gumpoldskirchner” wines became export favourites. Also, the first documentation of Trockenbeerenauslese, in Donnerskirchen, was made at this time - in 1526.
There were considerable set-backs in the 17th century. Heavy taxes were imposed on the production, transport, storage and selling of wine, while competition from the brewing of beer increased: the religious wars, especially the Thirty Years' War, had their effects indeed. Only in the 18th century did the climate improve, thanks to Empress Maria Theresia and her son, Joseph II, who were strong promoters of viticulture. The introduction of a general drinks tax in 1780 served to unify the various taxes, and the economic recovery influenced a boost in viticulture and wine trading. And with an imperial decree made on 17 August 1784, which permitted all wine-growers to sell their home-grown produce (food, wine and fruit must) all year round - the ‘Heurigen‘ was born. This institution is regulated today by the so-called “Buschenschank Law” in the wine regions of Wien (Vienna), Niederösterreich (Lower Austria), Burgenland and Steiermark (Styria).
More crises marked the 19th century, including severe cold climate conditions as well as the fungal diseases that arrived from America (Oidium, the powdery mildew; and Peronospora, the downy mildew). In 1872, grape phylloxera, also known as the ’grape pest‘, destroyed the major share of the vines in central Europe, and it took decades to create new vineyards by grafting European scions on phylloxera-resistant American vines. Through this method, lower-quality vines and yields were replaced - and the success story of Grüner Veltliner began. The phylloxera crisis and the resulting sales difficulties encouraged the creation of viticulture associations, and organisations such as co-operatives. In 1860, the first Austrian wine school, in Klosterneuburg, was founded; (still in existence, it is one of the oldest wine schools in the world).
After World War I, Austria became the third largest wine-producing country in the world. Yet the development and innovation continued: Lenz Moser created a high training system for vines, which he featured for the first time in vineyards in Rohrendorf, near Krems. The vines were hoisted on wire trellises, and this in turn allowed for practical machine treatment. This modern practice made its journey around the world, although it caught on in Austria only in 1956, after a severe frost. Nevertheless, the wine boom continued and, in fact, even seemed unstoppable - particularly as wine tourism in the Wachau area and around Lake Neusiedl (Neusiedlersee) began to develop. Further success was being experienced in the industry. But in 1985, some wine-growers threatened Austria’s viticultural reputation by mixing glycol into the wine and declaring it to be Prädikatswein. That debacle severely damaged exports for many years to come. However, it also resulted in the establishment in Austria of a new wine law, which, compared to those in the rest of Europe, was extremely strict as well as highly exemplary. It also constituted the basis for a rapid Austrian wine revival, assisted by innovations from the younger generation of wine-growers who were gradually taking over their family wine estate responsibilities. These young wine makers began taking educational trips to wineries around the world, exchanging knowledge and experiences, and learning about new wine production technologies. All of this went hand in hand with an increased awareness of quality in the work conducted in the vineyards, plus the growing interest in wine by consumers. With new grape varieties arousing curiosity, traditional varieties being resurrected, and red wines gaining renown in a country long dominated by its white wines, it became very clear: the ‘Austrian wine miracle’ had begun. Not only did the world take notice of Austrian wine, but numerous awards confirmed the top quality paired with the individuality of the wines produced by Austrian wine-growers.
As Austrian wine began its meteoric rise in the international wine scene, the Austrian Wine Marketing Board was created in 1986, and in 1991, the Austrian Wine Academy became an internationally recognised educational body. Also, upon joining the European Union in 1995, Austria adopted EU wine laws. But amendments to the wine laws established in previous years demonstrated the restrictive influence of legislation in the sphere of wine production and wine labelling. Between 2000 and 2005, numerous wine estates, benefiting from generous governmental support, were able to update their technologies to international standards; additionally, the widespread restructuring of vineyards in order to meet global market demands took place.
In 2003, Austria introduced the DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus) system of controlled appellation of origin. With this, origin is - for the first time in Austria - more important than grape variety, which traditionally had been more highly regarded. Now, Austria has taken its rightful place amongst the great wine producing countries such as France, Italy and Spain.
