Green Gates to Vienna: Landscape Preservation
First as increasing urbanization threatened viticulture in Vienna, a conscientious generation of young vintners determined that the city’s green gates would be best preserved by increasing the quality and appeal of their unique wines.
As Fritz Wieninger received the top score in a blind tasting of Rieslings from Austria and Germany at the prolific VieVinum 2004 wine fair, he added not just another award to his already large collection; he won the recognition of a panel of highly respected international wine critics not just for himself, but for Viennese wine in general. This Riesling from the 2002 vintage was sourced from the muschelkalk and clay soils of the steeply sloped Nussberg vineyard in Döbling. Nussdorf and Grinzing are the most famous wine communities in Döbling on the north side of the city, on the west side of the Danube River. The soils are heavy and calcareous and the climate perfect, not only for Riesling, but for Grüner Veltliner, Neuburger, Sauvignon blanc, and elegant Chardonnays. The Heurigen of this district are heavily touristed and with an increased consumer awareness and quality-oriented vinification, the sales of single-vineyard varietals by the bottle are increasing steadily.
Across the Danube River is the second famous vineyard slope in Vienna, Mount Bisamberg in the Floridsdorf district. Here one finds well-drained clay and calcareous soils ideal for Grüner Veltliner, Pinot blanc, and Chardonnay. Vintner Rainer Christ explains, “Because of an advantageous bend in the river, the west winds cross the Danube creating a climate quite similar to the Wachau”. Here from the Bisamberg you can see all of the famous landmarks of Vienna: St. Stephan’s Cathedral, the giant Ferris wheel, the Millennium Tower and UNO-City. Vienna’s only cellar alley is built into the slopes of Mount Bisamberg making it a pleasant place for a romantic walk. Wine festivals take place here twice a year and Heurigen are found on nearly every corner of the Stammersdorf commune.
The third most significant and most southerly of Vienna’s famous wine districts is Liesing, from which Mauer is the most prolific commune. Pushed farther on the outskirts of the city, tourists rarely find their way here as they do by the busload to Grinzing and Nussdorf in Döbling. The Heurigen here are viewed as more authentic. Cult winemaker Michael Edlmoser explains, “The soils are variable here with clay soils in the Leiten and Kadolzberg vineyards and lighter soils in the Sätzen vineyard. The climate is also more influenced by the warm Hungarian plains.” It is no wonder that you will find more Chardonnay, Pinot blanc, and Neuburger as well as most of the city’s red wines thriving in the advantageously warm micro-climate on Vienna’s south side. The Reisberg vineyard is one exception: because of its decomposing primary rock and cool evenings, it is predestined for Riesling.
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"The Zahel brothers are a dynamic team: Alfred operates the Heurigen while Richard makes the wines."
