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Food & Wine

Road Trip: Grapes of (the) Path

Styria's warm days followed by cool nights are predestined for Sauvignon Blanc as fulltime family wineries like Skoff and Wohlmuth consistently prove at international tasting competitions. Many enthusiasts claim that some of the world's best Sauvignon come from the slate and marl soils of this part of Austria and it is developing into the flagship varietal of the region. There are two different styles in Styria: a light fruity Sauvignon with the scent of fresh mown grass and gooseberries that is made to be drunk young; and a riper fuller bodied type with elder blossoms, exotic fruit components and a long mineral finish. This second style enjoys a small, judicious dose of oak in good years and has more aging potential.

Morillon is the Styrian name for Chardonnay. Some of Styria's greatest wines are made from this grape. It, too, can essentially be found in two styles. The traditional Styrian style is fermented cool in stainless steel tanks and has a striking clear structure with good volume and fruity, elegant acidity. The international style is rich, creamy, and voluptuous with a pleasant acidity and enjoys some subtle oak aging. New oak is generally used in small doses to attain an international flair without loosing the typical fruity regional characteristics. Manfred Tement made his first wine at age 16 and soon became Styria's most prominent winemaker. Year for year, his Morillon from the Zieregg vineyard can compete with the best Chardonnays of the world. When asked about the techniques he uses to ensure the consistent quality of his wines Mr. Tement modestly replies, "The really good wines make themselves."

Muskateller is a specialty in Styria and no winery demonstrates the finesse of this variety better than Riegelnegg. This variety belongs to the Muscat family and is nearly always bone dry, light, and delicate in Styria. This extremely aromatic regional specialty has a sweet fruity Muscat scent and light, dry palate that make it a mouth-watering aperitif.

Pinot Gris is commonly known as Grauer Burgunder or Ruländer in Austria. It is nearly always dry in Styria and is full-bodied and spicy with pleasant fruit and harmonious acidity. The Pössnitzberger Römerstein vineyard from the Eduard Tscheppe winery brings a particularly successful Pinot Gris distinguished by enticing creaminess and a certain mineral complexity that is unique to this region.

Styrians like to differentiate between their Gewürztraminer clones, calling the less spicy of the two simply Traminer or roter Traminer. It is easy to get excited about wines from this grape from volcanic soils in Südoststeiermark. Ultra modern, pure lines, and a clear statement marks not only the architecture of Anna and Albert Neumeister's winery, but also their all of their wines including their Traminer. Perky Styrian tartness keeps this full-bodied, rose-petal scented, spicy varietal from tasting soapy or oily.

 

 

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Tall, slender canopies with good aeration and exposure are the Wohlmuth's key to physiologically ripe grapes.
Tall, slender canopies with good aeration and exposure are the Wohlmuth's key to physiologically ripe grapes.

Wine is usually a family affair in Austria. The Polz brothers are happy with each other's work: Walter in the vineyard; Erich in the cuverie.
Wine is usually a family affair in Austria. The Polz brothers are happy with each other's work: Walter in the vineyard; Erich in the cuverie.