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Food & Wine

Love on the Rocks: Districtus Austria Controllatus

In the last 15 years Austria has changed its attitude and upgraded its standards more than any other wine producing country in Europe. International demand for Austrian wine has never been so high despite the confusing fact that wines are currently labeled by village, vineyard and grape variety while being classified by grape sugar content (see quality categories in detail). With its new global outlook, Lower Austria has been a hotbed of discussion for consumer-friendly classifications. A new DAC model was approved in February 2001 and introduces the long-term goal of establishing geographically defined, typical wine styles within the districts, each with a distinct internationally recognized identity

Interprofessional Committees (IKs) have been formed and consist of grape growers, wine makers, cooperatives, and wine merchants and have the main goal of emphasizing and further increasing quality, defining regional identities of Austrian wine, and making Austrian wine labels easier to understand. Each of the IKs will be empowered to choose between continuing with the present classification system or establishing new controlled appellation wines to be labeled Districtus Austria Controllatus (DAC).

The proposed DAC system has long established role models in France, Italy and Spain, yet will allow wine producers more room for individuality. Yield restrictions and vinification methods would be set by the IKs but required by EU law to meet or exceed the present minimum restrictions for Qualitätswein. The IKs would also have the option of defining vineyard classifications and their permitted grape varieties.

Given the structure of the Austrian wine industry, it will not be an easy task getting Interprofessional Committees to agree on DAC specifications. The average Austrian winery has less than 2.5 hectares of vineyards, yet often a diverse selection of specialties. Merchants are looking for typical wine styles with a continuous supply to fulfill current demand and justify international marketing, yet realize that the diversity of Austria's artisan wines is its most precious marketing asset. The road to Districtus Austria Controllatus is still a long one, but we can look forward to more Austrian wine labels that are as easy to understand as Austrian wines are to enjoy.

 

 

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Steep terraced vineyard slopes like Ried Hasel in Strass are common in LFred Loimer, master of avant-garde. The modern architecture of his winery represents the clean pure style of his Riesling and GV.
Fred Loimer, master of avant-garde. The modern architecture of his winery represents the clean pure style of his Riesling and GV.