Neu angelegter Weingarten in Abendstimmung
Junger Sproß einer Rebe
Food & Wine

Love on the Rocks: GV Country

Many travelers have first encountered Grüner Veltliner at a Viennese Heuriger. "Heuriger", directly translated, means "this year's" and the word is also synonymous for a wine tavern where they serve typical hearty rustic meals and the current year's jug wine along with it. Traditionally, these wines are light, fresh, and fairly high in acidity with a slight youthful prickle. This style of Grüner Veltliner can still be found, but most of it continues to be quaffed young at local country inns on the outskirts of Vienna. A general shift in attitude on the part of wine producers has brought about better grape growing, improved vinification techniques and a new style of GV. These full-bodied, concentrated, spicy wines are made to accompany more refined cuisines and are worthy of aging.

In Austria's largest wine district the Weinviertel, just northeast of Vienna. Roman and Adelheid Pfaffl originally produced just enough wine on their small mixed-agricultural farm to still the thirst of the guests at their Heuriger. As demands for their peppery Grüner Veltliner grew, so did their interest in becoming a full-time winery. The Pfaffl family vineyards have grown from a meager 1.5 hectares to 40 and the Heuriger has long been leased out.

The Pfaffl winery has since gained international repute for a grape variety that was long underestimated on its home turf. Grüner Veltliner is grape variety that is fairly unproblematic in the vineyard since it is fairly disease resistant and able to adapt to a large variety of soils. To keep quality high it is necessary to prune rigorously. Roman Pfaffl says. "Along with strict yield restrictions, what Grüner Veltliner definitely needs is a good location on a south-facing slope. It's important to remove foliage on the shaded side of the vines, but some leaf protection is necessary to keep the Grüner Veltliner grapes from getting sunburned on the south side." Perhaps the most typical Grüner Veltliners come from wineries like Pfaffl in the Weinviertel, but there are also very excellent examples from the Traisental and Donauland districts. The crisp fruit and incomparable peppery bouquet make quite an appetizing treat. Young winemakers like Bernhard Ott are bringing new dynamic into these sleepy untouched regions of Austria.

 

 

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Steep terraced vineyard slopes like Ried Hasel in Strass are common in Lower Austria.
Steep terraced vineyard slopes like Ried Hasel in Strass are common in Lower Austria.