Viennese Wine Bars: Classic (3)
Bognergasse 5, 1st District
Open: Monday through Saturday from 8:30 am to 12 pm
It is easy to forget that this historic establishment, founded originally as a spice shop in 1618 by Johan Babtist Cameel and expanded 200 years later to include wines and a delicatessen, has been one of the city’s best places to enjoy a glass of wine for the last century. The bar still wears its well-groomed art nouveau attire from the renovations of 1901 and in an atmosphere that celebrates the old Viennese style to the hilt, you can enjoy modern versions of local classics at very reasonable prices indeed. An eccentric-looking waiter sporting Emperor Franz-Josef style side burns with fluffy little tufts on his cheeks approaches us and in very Hapsburger German suggests the traditional expression of a Grüner Veltliner in a lighter style from the Weinviertel served together with a ham canapé garnished with freshly grated horseradish. How can we resist? Despite their simplicity, even the lightest Grüner Veltliners seem to have no problems with assertive herbs, vegetables, and spices.
Philharmonikerstraße, 1st District
Open daily 9am to 1 am
Yes Hotel Sacher not only has a café, and a restaurant, they also now have a wine bar. Opened in early Spring 2003, its interior continues the traditional Viennese imperial style, but it is infinitely less formal. The prices are stiff, but the quality is high. The goose liver torte with brioche served with one of Kracher’s prized TBA’s (Trockenbeerenauslese) will make heaven sigh. Austria’s botrytized sweet wines are yet another great gift to gourmets. A desirable fungus attacks grapes growing around the large flat Lake Neusiedl and shrivel the grapes to raisins. The luscious sweet wines made from the potent juice of these grapes retain a zingy vibrant acidity that balances layers and layers of complex flavors. These wines can be paired with anything from Roquefort to crème brûlée, but today it is pure hedonistic glee!
